December 01, 2008
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Stories About Wine

STORIES ABOUT WINE


There are many stories about wine that you can learn about all kinds of interesting facts. Some stories about wine are simply information about types of wine. You may have some stories yourself to share with us. Write us and tell us your stories about wine. See our collected stories below.

 

Here's a guide to the most common wines you'll run into taken from Vin de Vin stories about wine

 
Most Commonly Known Red Wines (Grapes)   Most Commonly Known White Wines (Grapes)
 
Cabernet Sauvignon primary grape in most wines labeled Bordeaux, Midi, or Meritage
The King of Red wines. "Cab" is a wine that is dark colored, almost black, and dry. It has more substance and weight than almost all other red wines. Generally it becomes more approachable with age. Grown around the world, it is among the most expensive red wines. Great with steak, chicken, lamb, or beef. The stories about wine are endless.
  Chardonnay primary grape in wines labeled [White] Burgundy, Pouilly-Fuissé, Chablis, Côte d'Or, or Mâconnais
The King of White wines. But in my opinion, not necessarily the best white wine in the world. A dry wine, it tastes of butter, butterscotch, and oak. Can age but generally not as long as red wines. Grown around the world, it is among the most expensive white wines. Consider matching it with saltwater fish, shellfish, pork, ham, pasta with butter, chicken, fowl, or even duck. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Merlot primary grape in Bordeaux wines that are labeled St.-Émilion or Pomerol [France]
More approachable than a Cab and generally more affordable too. In traditional Bordeaux wines Merlot is used to soften the Cabernet Sauvignon. Still dry, it has more of an upfront fruit flavor than a Cab. Fruit flavors can be of black cherry, strawberries, plums, or figs. Generally not as expensive as Cabs. Grown not only in France but in Chile, Italy, Washington State, Oregon, and California. Goes well with grilled meats, fowl, chicken, and pork. The stories about wine are endless.
  Sauvignon Blanc primary grape in wines labeled Pouilly-Fumé, Sancerre, or Pessac-Léognan
A wonderful smelling and tasting wine that can be consumed young, and more affordable than Chardonnay. Not as dry as Chardonnay, this wine has a lower alcohol content and therefore is not as heavy. Among the New World wine-producing countries, New Zealand makes the best Sauvignon Blancs hands down. Matches well with poached, grilled, or sautéed freshwater fish, chicken, turkey, or roast pork loin. The stories about wine  are endless.
 
Pinot Noir primary grape in wines labeled [Red] Burgundy
Not as weighty or dark colored as a Cab or Merlot, this wine is known for its complexity. It tastes of black cherry, spice, and raspberries. In addition to France, it is grown successfully in California, Oregon, and New Zealand. Because it is difficult to grow it can be comparable in cost to Cabs. Matches well with pork loin, ham, swordfish, veal, chicken, roast beef, and beef stew. The stories about wine are endless.
  Riesling known as Riesling virtually everywhere
In my opinion, the best and most versatile white wine grape in the world. It is grown most famously in Germany where it is made from dry to super-sweet. The best part of Riesling other than its taste, is the fact that it is low in alcohol. Riesling is also grown successfully in California, Washington State, New York State, and Austria. Try Riesling with your favorite Chinese or Asian food and hold on! The stories about wine are endless.
 
Syrah or Shiraz primary red grape in wines labeled Rhone [Valley in France]
A dark-colored wine, it tastes of pepper, spice, black cherry, earth, tar, leather, and roasted nut flavors, and has a smooth, supple texture and smooth tannins. Australian versions can be 100% Shiraz or blended with Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. Examples of French blends are Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Languedoc-Roussillon. Shiraz is generally more affordable than Cabs, particularly Australian versions. Goes well with grilled chicken, turkey, stews, duck, pork chops, and lamb. The stories about wine are endless.
  Chenin Blanc primary grape in wines labeled Bonnezeaux, Coteaux de l'Aubance, Coteaux de Layon, Montlouis, Quarts de Chaume, Saumer, Vouvray
In France, this wine can be made into a wide range of styles from dry (Coteaux de l'Aubance) to medium dry (Vouvray) to downright sweet (Quarts de Chaume). It is also the most widely planted white wine grape in South Africa. South African versions are quite affordable. It tastes of melon, peach, citrus, and spice. It can be a stand-alone wine or matched with cold cuts, crab salad, grilled trout, or swordfish. Sweeter styles match well with fresh fruits like strawberries (and cream), fruit flan, and cheesecake. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Zinfandel red, not white zinfandel
Dry, fruity, and full-bodied with a dash of spice. It is a dark-colored red wine that is among my favorites. Mainly grown in California. Its cousin, Primitivo, is made successfully in Italy. More affordable than many other red wines. Matches well with turkey, steak, hamburgers, and beef. The stories about wine are endless.
  Pinot Grigio sometimes labeled as Pinot Gris
One of the great white wines of Italy. It is also grown in France, Oregon, and California. It has a golden-yellow color and an herbaceous, vegetative, exotic fruit-type bouquet. Pinot Grigio is a bargain compared to many French and American white wines. Serve chilled with chicken, turkey, seafood pasta, fish, or shellfish. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Grenache also known as Garnacha Tinta or Grenache Noir
This wine is really hot right now. Why? When made well, like it is currently in Spain (and France), it can taste stunning. In addition, its price has been so affordable, the complete package is hard to beat. Australian versions are often blended with Mourvédre and Shriaz. In France it is associated with the wines of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine region. In Spain, the Cataluna/Priorat, Rioja, and Navarra wine regions are leading the way. When such a grape is made in so many different regions, the style can vary considerably. In general, it tastes of rich black cherries, honey, coffee, and blackberries. Try it with grilled meats. The stories about wine are endless.
  Sémillon primary grape in most wines labeled Sauternes, Graves, and Pessac-Léognan [France]
Arguably the world's most famous dessert wine, Sauternes, is made from this grape (and two others: Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle). In many New World countries, wines are often made from 100% Semillon. It can be made bone-dry to lusciously sweet. Australian versions are second only to the French versions, which are very expensive. If you are lucky enough to try sweeter versions, marry it with puddings or blue cheeses. Dry versions go well with fish or shellfish. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Sangiovese the primary grape in wines labeled Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti [these are wine regions in Italy]
Some of the most famous wines to come from Italy are made from this grape. The grape produces wines that taste of cherries, violets, herbs, vanilla, and tea. It can take on a wood or spice taste due to aging in oak barrels. Lately in Italy, this grape has been blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah to create "Super Tuscan" wines. Also made in California. Better quality usually means a higher price. But when matched with almost anything with a tomato sauce these wines can be…, all I can is, Abondanza! The stories about wine are endless.
  Gewürztraminerlabeled the same everywhere
Spicy is the most common word used to describe this wine. Its name comes from the German word for "spicy" (gewürz) and a town in Northern Italy named "Tramin." It is made in France, Germany, Austria, California, Oregon, Chile, New Zealand, and Canada. It can be made from dry to sweet. Drier versions tend to be more affordable, especially New World versions. Sweeter versions are not as expensive as Sauternes. Matches well with duck, smoked fish, and almost all foods from India and South-East Asia. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Gamay primary grape in wine labeled Beaujolais [France]; also known as Gamay Noir a Jus Blanc
All you need to know about wines made from this grape is they are made into fresh, young drinking wines (within one year) with up-front fruit flavor, and are low in alcohol and high in marketing appeal. Why? The most famous versions of these wines, Beaujolais Nouveau, come from the Beaujolais region of France. They are harvested, crushed, fermented, and bottled within a short period of time so that they can show up at your wine shop by the third Thursday in November every year. Have some at Thanksgiving and hold the rest until summer. Generally, these wines are very affordable. The stories about wine are endless.
  Muscat also labeled as Muscat Blanc, Moscato d'Asti, Moscato Canelli, Muskateller, Moscatel, or Brown Muscat
This grape has many names because it is grown in so many countries; from Portugal in the west to Greece in the east and from South Africa to Australia and the U.S. It is therefore not surprising that it is made in many different styles. The major styles are dry, sweet, and sparkling (Moscato d'Asti/Moscato Canelli of Italy). Chilled Moscato d'Asti is a great, affordable alternative to expensive Champagne. Australia is known for its sweeter styles. Sweet wines made from this grape go well over ice cream. Very reasonably priced. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Nebbiolo sole grape in wines labeled Barolo and Barbaresco [Italy]
Grown mainly in Italy, this grape is associated with making big, bold, rich, red wines that smell of tar, roses, and exotic fruit. It tastes of dried fruit, cherries, and licorice. With age, the toughness softens and can become more approachable. Try a bottle with salami or Italian-influenced meat dishes. Among the most expensive wines to come from Italy, but the best versions are worth it. The stories about wine are endless.
  Viognier labeled the same everywhere
Very aromatic and reminiscent of fruit, honey, musk, or flowers, this wine often has higher alcohol content than other white wines like Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling. You can find this wine being made in France, Italy, the U.S., Australia, and South Africa. Well-made versions from France can be moderately expensive. New World versions may not be as complex but generally they are more affordable. This wine can be consumed as an apéritif or with Indian food, most chicken dishes, as well as shellfish. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Barbera the primary grape in wines labeled Barbera, Barbera d'Asti, and Barbera d'Alba
The other great red grape of the Piedmont region (Nebbiolo being the most famous) of northeast Italy is made into wines of varying styles. It can be made into a New World style, that is, it can be an early drinking wine, with cherry-fruit flavors. It can also be made into a brooding, developing, hearty style, which over time shows its true fruit flavors. Regardless of style, it almost always has good color, high acidity, and low tannin. A few countries like Australia, Argentina, and the U.S. have successfully made Barbera. But its true home is in Piedmont, in the villages of Asti and Alba. More affordable than some Italian red wines, Barbera is a perfect match for pasta with red sauce, veal, grilled pork chops, or swordfish. The stories about wine are endless.
  Tempranillo the primary grape in wines labeled Ribera del Duero, Rioja, La Mancha, and Toro
Spain's most famous red grape is also found in Portugal, where its name is Tinta Roriz or Aragonez. In Spain the wine flourishes in the Duero river valley and neighboring Rioja. It can be made into a wine that is 100% Tempranillo or it can be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. The color is a dark purple and the taste is reminiscent of strawberries and black cherries. The flavor matches the in-your-face bouquet. Among the most affordable of quality red wines, it can be matched with smoked ham, spicy sausage like linguiça or chorizo, as well as roast lamb. There are deals on this wine out there. If you find a good bottle you won't be disappointed in the price or the quality. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Dolcetto primary grape in wines labeled Dolcetto, Ormeasco, or Charbono
Another quality red wine from the Piedmont region in northeast Italy. Not the strongest bouquet, but the black cherry flavor makes up for it. It is a dry red wine that is made to be consumed young (within 2-4 years), not unlike Beaujolais in this regard. You should be able to find quality bottles of this wine between $12 and $15. Try it with beef, chicken, veal, or soft Italian cheeses like mozzarella. The stories about wine are endless.
  Malbec primary grape in wines labeled Malbec, Cahors, and [red] Auxerrois
Argentina has become the biggest producer of wines made from Malbec. The French can use it as a blending grape in red wines made in Bordeaux. The only place in France you will find it as a stand-alone wine is in the Cahors region in the southwest. In Argentina, Malbec is the country's proudest and most consumed red wine. Perfect with marinated steak on the grill or other grilled meats. Argentine versions are affordable and worth seeking out. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Roussanne primary grape in wines labeled Roussanne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, and Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc
One of the two major dry white wine grapes of the Rhone Valley of Southern France is often blended with Marsanne (the other major white wine grape of this region). Some Roussanne-based wines are heavy on the oak (as in oak barrels for aging). Unoaked versions have more upfront flavors like dried pears and herbal tea. Prices begin at $15 and go up as high as $30 and even higher. Try it with poached salmon, flounder, or shrimp. The stories about wine are endless.
  Marsanne primary grape in wines labeled Marsanne, St. Joseph Blanc, Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, and Hermitage Blanc
The other dry white wine grape of the Rhone Valley, it can be blended or made into a stand alone wine. It is made quite successfully in Australia as well. The bouquet smells of honeysuckle and the taste brings forth honey, pear, and spice. It is a heavier white wine with a touch of oiliness. French versions are usually blended and generally more expensive. The French also make it into a dessert wine. Australian versions are usually 100% Marsanne and more affordable. Goes well with pork roast, grilled shellfish, lobster in cream sauce, and roast duck. The stories about wine are endless.
 
Albariño primary grape in wines labeled Albariño, Rias Baixas, or Alvarinho
The great white grape of Galicia in the northwest of Spain, it is also grown in northern Portugal. It is a lighter, dry white wine with an exotic, spicy, bouquet. Its taste is reminiscent of dried peaches or apricots. This wine is typically consumed young (not suitable for long-term aging) and is best matched with fresh water fish and shellfish. Very affordable it can be hard to find because of its obscurity. The stories about wine are endless.
  Pinot Blanc primary grape in wines labeled Pinot Blanc, Pinot Bianco, and Weissburgunde
Pinot Blanc is grown and made into wine in France (Alsace and Burgundy), Germany, Italy, Austria, Canada, and the U.S. Not as aromatic as many other white wines, Pinot Blanc has a spicy, creamy, dried-nut flavor. A subtle, dry white wine, it is considered very much a "food" wine because of its higher alcohol content, although it can hold its own as an aperitif. It goes well with cold cuts or fresh-water fish. French versions are considered the best but the price is higher than you would expect. The stories about wine are endless.

 

The Great Cork Controversy: The Past, Present and Future for Corks in Wine Bottles
Courtesy of Simi Winery, Healdsburg, California

 The stories about wine are endless.

A Brief History of Corks in Bottles

Corks have been used as bottle stoppers for as long as we have had wine. We know that the Greeks in the 5th century BCE sometimes used corks to close wine jugs. Following in their footsteps, as usual, the Romans also used the cork as a stopper and also coated corks with pitch to seal the closure. The stories about wine are endless.

Corks, however, were not the closure of choice in those ancient days: the most common closures for wine jugs and amphora were a coating of pitch or gypsum over the opening of a vessel or a film of olive oil floating on the surface of the wine. The use of corks was apparently completely given up for some reason in the medieval times. At any rate, paintings from that era depict twists of cloth or leather used to stop the jug or bottle, sometimes with sealing wax to make a secure closure. The stories about wine are endless.

We find corks beginning to be mentioned again at the end of the 16th century. By the time Shakespeare wrote "As You Like It" (Between 1598 and 1600) they were well enough known for Rosalind to say impatiently to her cousin Celia: "I pray thee take thy cork our of thy mouth, that I may drink thy tidings." The stories about wine are endless.

The marriage of cork and bottle, at least in England, took place by degrees over the first half of the 17th Century. The alternative closure of the time, stoppers of ground glass made individually to fit the bottle neck, held their own for a remarkably long time. Worlidge's "Treatise of Cider", published in 1676, declares that great care is needed in choosing good corks, "much liquor being absolutely spoiled through the only defect of the cork. Therefore are glass stoppels to be preferred...." at the cost of no small trouble since each one had to be ground to fit a particular bottle, using emery powder and oil. The "stoppel" was then tied to the bottle by a piece of packthread around a button on top. As late as 1825, the ultimate luxury stoppers were abandoned because they were usually impossible to extract without breaking the bottle. The stories about wine are endless.

The nature of cork is such that its success as a closure depends upon its fitting snuggly into an opening with a relatively uniform diameter. This, it was not until the 17th century, when glass bottles were first made with more or less uniform openings, that the cork truly came into its own. The stories about wine are endless.

Many wine historians have linked the development of the glass bottle and its cork stopper as two necessary prerequisities for the modern international wine trade. Wine no longer need be shipped in bulky, awkward clay vessels or wooden barrels. The economies of space enabled ships to carry more wine and the wine was much less subject to spoilage in the shipment. The stories about wine are endless.

Because cork stoppers prevented oxygen from spoiling the wine, both in shipment and in subsequent storage, it became evident that wine benefited from its maturing time in the bottle. The desirable properties of aged wine made it more valuable, and collecting and cellaring wines from many different regions became both feasible and profitable. The stories about wine are endless.

One thing remained to be invented before the cork closure became truly practical: a corkscrew so that the cork could be driven right in, not left half-out like a stopper. The first mention in print of a corkscrew is in 1681. It was described (by one N. Grew) as a "steel worm used for the drawing out of corks out of bottles." They had been in use for at least half a century for drawing bullets and wadding from firearms. But the word corkscrew was not coined until 1720. It was originally called a bottlescrew. The stories about wine are endless.

Why Do We Use Cork Today?

In the almost three hundred years intervening between the renewed usage of cork and the end of the 20th century, cork has been the overwhelming closure of preference for fine wines around the world. The very sound of a cork's firm, round "plop" from the mouth of a bottle sets taste buds salivating in anticipation of a delicious treat. There are several very sound reasons for cork's continuing popularity: cork's component materials and structure give it a unique set of physical and mechanical properties that make it ideal as a bottle closure. The stories about wine are endless. They are:

  • Lightness: cork is very light in weight and low in density.
  • Impermiability: cork is very resistant to moisture penetration (Why do you think it is used in life jackets?)
  • Compressability: cork is capable of compression to half its dimension with no loss of its flexibility. And it is the only solid which may be compressed in diameter without expanding its length.
  • Flexibility: when removed from compression, cork will recover about 85% of its initial volume immediately and more than 98% after 24 hours.
  • Adherence: the slicing of the surface cells in forming a cork stopper produces an extraordinary cupping effect. Millions of cells are opened and function as suction cups. This provides an exceptional power of adhesion to wet, smooth surfaces.
  • Temperature and age stability: cork retains its properties at both high and low extremes of temperature and will age almost indefinitely without deterioration.
  • Cork is the only material known that tolerates imperfections in glass and compensates for them.
  • Cork is bio-degradable.

How Does Cork Seal The Bottle?

Cork's natural vegetable tissue is composed of closed air cells arranged with polyhedric geometry which allow pliability and do not leak. The cells are banded together in a perfectly regular manner at a rate of about 40 million per cubic centimeter. An average wine cork therefore contains almost 800 millions cells, which act as suction cups to prevent seepage of wine from the inside of the bottle. Suberin, a complex fatty acid substance, gives cork its basic composition. It is the tissue that makes cork unique and gives it its particular elastic characteristics. The stories about wine are endless.

The Source of Cork and Its Manufacture

Quercus Suber (thus, suberin) is the botanical name for a kind of slow growing, evergreen oak that grows well and prolifically throughout specific regions of the Western Mediterranean - and only in these regions. It requires a great deal of sunlight and a highly unusual combination of low rainfall and somewhat high humidity. (Experiments in growing cork trees in North and South America, Russia and Japan have so far proved disappointing.) The quality and thickness of the bark will vary according to its specific growing conditions. It has evolved the spongy substance of cork as protection and insulation for itself, particularly against fire. The stories about wine are endless.

Most trees will die if their bark is removed, because the bark helps to carry the sap that is essential to the life of the tree. The cork oak, however, has two layers of bark. The inner layer is alive and it is the base on which a new inner layer grows each year. As the old layers move outward and die, they serve as insulation, protecting the tree from the hot arid winds in the growing areas. The dead outer layer can be stripped away without injuring the tree, but care must be taken not to penetrate the inner living bark. The stories about wine are endless.

If you are planning to grow cork trees for a living, be prepared to wait to least 25 years until the first harvest of cork is mature. Cork from the first harvest, however, is irregular in size and density, and not suitable for wine stoppers. It will probably be used for floor tiles or sound insulating materials. Nine more years must pass before the tree can be harvested again. Even this second harvest of cork is not good enough for wine bottle stoppers. It is not until the third harvest, or when the tree is 52 years old, that the regularity of size and density of cells renders it acceptable for wine bottle usage. A cork tree will yield between 13 and 18 useful harvests in its lifetime. The stories about wine are endless.

The cork is tripped by hand with the aid of small sharp axes, and the resulting cork strips are then stacked and weathered. The tree itself is carefully marked and numbered, so that future harvesters will know that particular tree needs nine years before it is harvested again. The stories about wine are endless.

The cork manufacturers then inspect the weathered stacks of cork to determine if they will buy and at what price. They truck the cork north from the cork forests to Portugal's cork factories, and stack the cork for an additional 3 months or more to let it weather and dry. The weathering process is designed to arrive at the optimal amount of moisture in the cork. The proper moisture content is crucial for the elasticity and compressibility of the cork. In addition, the layer of cork closest to the interior of the tree has considerably higher moisture content, so the weathering ensures consistency of moisture level throughout the sheet of cork. The stories about wine are endless.

After all this drying, the cork is immersed in boiling water for at least 90 minutes to sterilize it and to enable it to flatten from its original curved tree trunk shape. After boiling, the corks "ripen" for 3 to 4 weeks in order to achieve the desired moisture level. Next the cork is trimmed into strips and holes are punched into it for the correct size and shape for the bottle cork. The width of the bark strip forms the diameter of the cork, not the length of the cork. Thus, growth rings of the tree are to be found imbedded longitudinally in the cork. This stage of the manufacturing process requires a keen eye as the hole punchers maneuver the strips for maximum quality. This is one of many quality control steps in the manufacture of the cork. Next the cork heads are polished so that the cork will have a specific, uniform length and the body is polished so that it will have a specific, uniform diameter. The stories about wine are endless.

The corks are then washed and dried. Most are bleached in either chlorine or hydrogen peroxide in order to disinfect the cork of any remaining impurities, and some are just rinsed without bleach, depending on the specific winery's request. Corks are graded for quality and then each cork of comparable quality is branded with the name of the winery that has ordered that particular batch. The stories about wine are endless.

A final surface treatment, either silicone and / or paraffin or a resin, is sprayed or tumbled onto the surface of the cork. This treatment eases insertion of the cork into the bottle and improves the seal against the glass. The corks are bagged in plastic bags and shipped to their final destination, the winery that ordered them. The stories about wine are endless.

There's Just One Little Problem.....

With all the beneficial properties of corks as bottle closures, one significant defect rears its ugly head. This is the problem of "corkiness" a condition that exists when wine is tainted by the presence of a chemical compound called 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole - TCA for short. This compound appears to be caused in the cork by the interaction of moisture, chlorine and mold. Form the harvest of the cork to the bottling of the wine, the cork can be exposed to these three elements, and TCA can form. Unfortunately, the human nose can detect this "corkiness" at concentrations as low as 4 parts per trillion! (TCA is also a naturally-occurring compound found in the wood and bark of many trees, including the oak family.) The stories about wine are endless.

A lightly corked wine may simply smell like cork, while a badly corked wine smells musty, like damp cardboard or old newspapers. The usual rich aroma and flavor of fruit and oak is stripped away by the musty odor. A wine may be more or less corked; that is, there may be just a trace of corkiness that will be detected only if the person smelling the wine knows from prior experience what characteristic aromas and flavors a good bottle should have. But a bad case of corkiness is overwhelming and unforgettable! A corked wine poses absolutely no health problems - it just doesn't smell or taste good. Ultimately, the problem is that you have spent good money for a bottle of bad wine, and you have absolutely no way of knowing this until you have opened it and poured it. The stories about wine are endless.

Should You Worry?

Several years ago, the industry became aware of what seemed to be a growing quality control problem with corks. Portugal, which produces about 52% of the world's cork supply, had undergone a political revolution in 1974 that changed much of the management of the cork tree forests and of cork factories. In some cases, unskilled or inexperienced people were managing groves of cork trees which they were not able to care for or harvest properly. Quality control standards were also very poor by today's standards. Almost 2 1/2 million acres of cork forests had to be cleaned up, newly planted and reorganized. The stories about wine are endless.

This major investment got underway in 1978, and today well-managed forests, stringent quality control in growing, harvesting and processing are combating the problems of 2,4,6-TCA. Peroxide baths instead of chlorine bleaching (as well as "natural" corks with no chemical bath at all) and controlled humidity in shipment are also major factors in improving the over-all quality of cork stoppers. The stories about wine are endless.

Because world-wide concern with the perceived degradation of cork quality had a tremendous impact on the cork industry, a group of U.S. cork suppliers founded the Cork Quality Council (CQC) in 1992. Its mission was to improve the quality of corks at the source, to develop an educational program to assist wineries and to develop industry standards for cork quality. The CQC has been a major influence in persuading cork producers that it was in their own best interests to monitor cork production in a stringent fashion. The stories about wine are endless.

What About Plastic Stoppers and Screwtops?

In an April, 1990 issue, Harvey Steiman of The Wine Spectator estimated that 4.7 percent of the wines submitted to that magazine for tasting and review were contaminated by corkiness. Craig Goldwyn of The Beverage Testing Institute, in a December, 1992 issue estimated that up to 8 per cent of wines are tainted by the time they reach the retail store or restaurant. And Lyn Farmer of The Wine News in a February/March, 1994 issue, estimated that 3 percent of the wines submitted for review were corked. Bill Stephens, a respected wine writer for The San Antonio Express-News, is quite vocally opposed to corks as wine bottle stoppers, saying that cork should go "back to the dark ages where it belongs." The stories about wine are endless.

No matter which side of the cork issue you are on, it is very likely that you have a highly emotional response. The revered tradition of cork as bottle stopper for wine will die hard and slowly, but anyone who has an opinion or preference appears to hold it strongly. It makes for lively conversation at the very least! The stories about wine are endless.

It is important to remember that not all the opposition to corks as wine bottle stoppers is based on quality issues alone. Many people believe quite strongly that cork usage is an elitist holdover that renders opening a bottle a difficult and esoteric process. And some consumers may be intimidated by the cork-sniffing, bottle-opening ritual in restaurants. (You needn't be! The only thing you need to do when the waiter presents the cork to you is to place it on the table and ask to taste the wine. The cork itself will not reveal the quality of the wine in the bottle.) The stories about wine are endless.

What about alternative closures? The two front runners are a synthetic, plastic substance trademarked as Cellukork, and the screw cap. Cellukork is made of ethylene vinyl acetate, and looks and feels similar to real cork. You use a corkscrew to remove it from the bottle. It has two obvious drawbacks: one is that it often fits so tightly in the bottle that it is very difficult to remove (a problem that will no doubt be resolved through research); the other problem is only a potential problem - but a very serious one if it materializes. That is, is the synthetic material truly non-reactive and inert over long periods of time? Will it impart no flavors of its own to the wine? This is worthy of consideration for any wine that will be cellared for a number of years before it is drunk. Naturally, wineries using these plastic corks are deliberately aging wines to see what happens, but it is too soon by several years to know the outcome. The stories about wine are endless.

And the screw cap? It provides an excellent air-tight seal, although there is a question as to whether or not it will protect the wine over a very long period of time. The stories about wine are endless.

Aside from the quality issue, the image of a screw cap is firmly lodged in many peoples' minds as the "epitome of cheap wine." Many fine wine producers, sensitive to the fine wine market, hesitate to switch to a screw cap because they do not want their wine to be perceived as of inferior quality. The stories about wine are endless.

The best part for the consumer is that screw caps are very user friendly - no more struggles if you forget to bring the corkscrew to the picnic! Many wine marketers believe that the down-home nature of screw caps can only benefit the industry by making wine more accessible - figuratively as well as literally - as we erase the elitist image associated with the ritual of opening wine. The stories about wine are endless.

    
 
 
 

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